A new steakhouse in town always is news, and to be located near my neighborhood is even bigger news, and to be a kosher steakhouse is phenomenal. It also has one of the loveliest dining rooms. Genesis Steakhouse & Wine Bar on Bissonnet, just east of Chimney Rock, is only 10 minutes from Meyerland and even closer to West U and Bellaire.
Genesis is the first kosher steakhouse, not just in Texas, but also in the entire Southwestern United States. Genesis brings unmatched glatt kosher dining with an outstanding menu and marvelous food. No wonder: Owner Jason Goldstein is the son of Suzie Goldstein of Suzie’s Grill, where she brought her deep-rooted culinary traditions from her Persian upbringing.
The apple doesn’t fall far from the tree, and Jason has created a new gem of a restaurant. Genesis represents years of planning and hard work to bring his vision to realization. The dining room is spectacular, with ever-changing lighting colors and exquisite chandeliers. There is a huge tree in the center of the dining room that must be seen. It’s a fake, but it fooled me. You also can enjoy first-class cocktails in a beautiful bar.
Genesis abides by the ethical and cleanliness standards established and monitored by the Houston Kashruth Association and Mehadrin Kashrus of Texas.
On my first visit, dinner began with a glass of wine with many choices by the glass. Incidentally, all wine at Genesis is kosher and mevushal. Then, I had the best Salmon Cake, ever! Two cakes came with micro greens and Remoulade sauce and easily were shared. Then came two excellent salads. The Asian had shredded Napa cabbage and bok choy, micro greens, sesame seeds, almonds and crispy noodles. Baby Spinach and Kale Salad came with artichoke, pear tomatoes, dried cranberries and pecans.
I normally don’t order a soup when I have a salad, but when I saw it was Suzie’s famous Matzah Ball Soup, I had to get it. It was fabulous, as always, with a spectacular matzah ball.
For the main course, I ordered The Brooklyn. This was a 12-ounce Strip steak with Port wine reduction, grilled asparagus and fork-smashed potatoes. The steak came perfectly medium rare, and the potatoes were knock-outs. Also at my table we had Cote de Veau, an herb-marinated and grilled 14-ounce veal chop. It had a Frangelico demi-
glace and was served with flash-fried Brussels sprouts. Great chop, great veggie! The Genesis kitchen really has its steak timing perfect and excels at presentation.
Aside from many other steaks and chops, there are a number of fish choices like Chilean Sea Bass, Tequila Flamed Snapper, Hawaiian Tuna and Blackened Salmon. There also are many chicken and duck dishes.
I tasted two dazzling desserts. First came Dulce de Leche Box, layers of moist caramel-infused cake with a sweet caramel mousse in a caramel and chocolate box. The other was Chocolate Lava Cake, with soy ice cream. I adored the warm, moist center and thought the soy ice cream was indistinguishable from dairy ice cream.
For your special event, like weddings, rehearsal dinners, Bar Mitzvahs or business meetings, Genesis has a wine room for up to 40 guests and the Grand Banquet Room, which is available for up to 80 guests.
The Genesis Grand Opening is scheduled for late January, but they are serving now with reservations made at genesissteakhouse.com. Genesis is located at 5427 Bissonnet St., Suite 400, 713-665-2222.
By TED POWERS, Food Editor
Thu, Jan 15, 2015